Family surf Trip Sri Lanka
Where to stay and eat, what do do, and how to get there.
The 'surf' is uncapitalised for a few reasons. Sri Lanka was the last destination on the way home from a family based trip to Ireland (via San Francisco). We carried our surfboards the previous half of the month for these 13 days in Sri Lanka, of which only 6 we spent on the coast at Arugam Bay. Sri Lanka was also our first destination as a family that none of us had been to, and our girls (8 and 11) first experience being very hot with english not as the first language. So though we love to surf, be in different oceans and line ups, by the nature of the short time we had, and the needs of our kids, the following will not be very helpful for the surf. But hopefully it's helpful for all the other reasons (stay, eat, do, transport) in a stunning country.
This trip was in May 2026. The beginning of the surf season for the east coast (May - September).
Landing in Colombo, Negombo is a town closer to Colombo airport than Colombo city, and without the craziness of a city.
Negombo (20 mins from Colombo Airport)
Swanee Grand restoration post long travel
It was raining when we first arrived, so we didn't go out and about, and the food was so good that we didn't leave the last night before departure. We left bags of cold weather clothes here so we didn't have to cart them around. The pool was so good to refresh after a big day of travelling. Barnaby cut us fresh mango from the tree. The cleanest place we stayed, with the most lovely staff.
Stay Eat Do ~ Swanee Grand
Transport ~
Download 'Uber' or 'Pick Me' and after that most communications are done via 'WhatsApp' (not only for transport).
At our time of travel (May 2026) the railways and roads were still recovering from a massive cyclone in Nov/Dec 2025. Colombo to Kandy, and the highly recommended Kandy to Ella rail were not active).
While there are buses, as a family, with boards and a short time frame, we chose to go taxis.
It was raining over most of the country when we first arrived, so we decided to head all the way over to Arugam Bay (from west to east coast). This took over 8 hours with only 1 quick stop for some roadside snacks. Leave early so you're not arriving in the dark.
The over eight hour journey from east to west
Arugam Bay
A walk out to Arugam Bay Main Point
A beautiful hot sweaty salty paradise. I forgot what it is like to be in a tropical destination. If you need a reminder - pack only swimwear, loose fitting clothes, and sarongs. Get up early and walk round the point to check the waves (only because walking at any other part of the day will saturate your outfit and melt your brain). I should caveat here (in the best possible way) that we are advocates for owner operator businesses and wherever possible, we support these ventures. No one cares for a business like the ones that own and operate them and it was glaringly obvious in all the places we visited over our month long journey. All the below are also close to the main point surf break, to make life easy with kids - and walkable!
Stay
Hideaway
An absolute gem. Perfect place to land after a day traversing west to east. Pool was incredible. Immersing ones self in water is top priority for me when travelling. Even if it's feet in the ocean. The kids really needed a pool so they didn't overheat and melt down. Also hours of fun in the midday when there is not much else you want to do. The Ayurvedic massage was insane and realigned my travel weary body. Design was perfection, and the only place that supplied loose leaf teas (a tropical echo of The Huts, which is probably why we felt so at home). The owner Sharon has called Arugam Bay home for long periods of time from a young age. Hideaway is a clear expression of her love for the people and the place, from the locally sourced furnishings to the investment in a water filtration system so you can refill your water bottles. They also have a cafe-restaurant and shop, which are all great, but will spread the love in those sections.
Hideaways' beautiful respite from the heat
Eat
Because it was so hot, we only ended up eating twice a day. The kids had to eat at least one Sri Lankan meal a day (curry). In the mornings it was mostly smoothie bowls or pancakes or omelettes. Dinner was curry curry curry. So fresh and flavourful and delicious!
Yummy mentions go to Samanthi's, Hideaway and the roadside Roti with Banana and Nutella. But the best breakfast place for us was Salty Swamis and the best dinner at Mama's.
Salty Swamis
Salty Swamis is a surf shop and cafe. A friend Milo had visited filming a project and we were in contact with the owners - brothers Yhevin and Yannick - prior to arriving. It was their first week opening (this was common and a lot of places were not yet open, some in the throws of being built for the short and busy season). Absolutely delicious options, sitting in beautiful open cabanas on the beach. Coffee was also great which met Adam's high standard and kept him very happy. They also provide filtered water and you can refill your water bottles. Thanks Yhevin for the yummy times, good tips, and lending of a longer board - perfect host.
Smoothie Bowl as Salty Swami's
Mama's
A buffet that starts around 6. Packed, cheap and delicious.
Mama's buffet dinner
Do
Surf
Arugam Bay is known for its waves, and was the purpose of this as a destination. I'll do a seperate write up on what to pack, when to go, and our experience of the wave, line up and culture.
Safari Jackal and Co. Safaris
Close to Arugam Bay is the Kumana National Park. Huge wetlands bring in a beautiful display of bird life, as well as the animals you hope to see - Elephants, Crocs and Leopards. Jackal and Co. Kasun and Sasa from Jackal and Co gave us the most incredible experience with so much knowledge and patience for all of our questions. A truely unforgettable experience which ended with the moon set and a night sky full of glorious stars.
Cooking Class Mona +
Kids open up our world! I have travelled a lot, and was so surf or work focused, I never took the time to take a cooking class or a safari. Lots of firsts for all of us. Mona takes the classes from her home. The girls felt so included, we all learnt so much, and by the end they were eating curry with their hands.
Transport Chanu via Whats App +94716583657
The dude. transport around and from Arugam to Ella. Sorted the next ride from Ella to Kandy as well.
On the way to Ella. Though the drives are long, there is no shortage of breath taking views
Ella
Ella was the perfect mountain balm after the frustrating coastal surfing experience of Arugam Bay. Cooler temperatures and absolutely stunning scenes. A reminder to just be.
Stay Majentra
Set within a tea plantation, high in the mountains, overlooking stunning Sri Lanka. This place was truely breath taking. Only four rooms, a perfect pool, surrounded by cinnamon, cacao and banana plants! Only downside was a 30 min tuktuk ride to Ella centre as the road was being upgraded.
Views from Majentra
Eat Clay Pot
The Clay Pot provided by far the best curry we had. Set in a relaxed Tree House was a bonus.
Clay Pot - if only you could taste a picture.
Do
am. Little Adams Peak, Zip Line (at the same place)
Adam at Little Adam's Peak
pm. Tea Plantation, Nine Arch Bridge
Transport
Tuk tuk everywhere. Our driver came with us to the bridge and walked the railway.
Kandy
As a family we really enjoyed the hustle and bustle and underlying richness of Kandy. Socially they don't eat out much, so the food scene is not amazing. But the culture, people and feeling make up for it. If I had more than two nights I would stay outside of the city in the two recommendations below and come in for day trips.
Looking over Kandy Lake to Temple of the Tooth
Stay
This is a funny one, as I'm not recommending where we stayed. These are serendipitous recommendations. A friend of a friend had recommended we visit Waruna Antiques. Whilst there we met Waruna himself, a self confessed hippy who took over the family antique business and then built the Kandy Samadhi Centre. The centre had been recommended by two others, but we only had two nights and didn't want to drive back and forth after we had done that in Ella. While with Waruna we also met Luca who owns and runs Ellerton Bungalow.
Eat Cafe Secret Alley
On par with the Salty Swamis breakfast. Absolutely delicious and a great way to start the day before adventures.
The girls favourite breakfast place for obvious reasons
Do
Below is what we did or were recommended. Honestly, I would stay out at the Samadhi Centre, do yoga and get Ayurvedic treatments. We met Vish on the way back from dinner one night. We clicked instantly over the All Blacks, and he offered to take us round the next day. Sri Lanka is known for buddhism, gems and crafts and so it was a busy and full day. Never would have seen as much if we went site by site, and also would have missed some very special places.
Temple of the Tooth, big white Buddha, Buddhist learning centre, Gem Museum and shop, wood carving village, Waruna Antiques, Kandy Cultural Dance
Some additional ones that were recommended but didn't make it to because it started raining.
Botanical Gardens and Udawattekale Forest Walk.
Transport ~ Vish via Whats App +94752855217
As well as our Kandy tour guide, Vish also took us back to Negombo. Contact for rides to/from Colombo/Negombo to Kandy.
Tuk tuk riders
If you do make it to Colombo, there is a shop, cafe, gallery which I highly recommend. Barefoot Garden Cafe
That's it folks. The places and people we loved, ended up having serendipitous connections that spread far and wide and yet connected us in an instant. Sri Lanka was a magical land, with an incredible amount of history, beauty and wilderness. Not sure how 13 days could in one hand, barely scratch the surface, and in the other, leave a very lasting impression. We could return at a much slower pace, and take our sweet time exploring, eating, and just being. Sri Lanka is very much alive, with inspiration and wonder at your fingertips. While I hope there suggestions help you land, may you weave your own serendipitous meanderings and heartfelt moments across the land.